San Francisco





 
The time spent in San Fran can be filled with a broad spectrum of activities. For me it ranged from spending time in the Outer Sunset District with the surfers and the burners where the word “hella” replaces exclamation points and the slow speech of hipsters on the beach can make one despair about the decline of Western Civilization. 
I visited friends in the mission district where the arts flourish and families have hosted Family-Matter style houses for generations.
I particularly love attempting to park a car horizontally on the vertical streets of this area.

Even the time I spent shopping in Haight, (preferably Upper Haight,) exploring the vintage shops, the stripper stores, the-restaurants-that-would-be-considered-kitch-anywhere-else-in-the-world-but-have-crossed-into-cool, in Nor Cal was educational. I also sincerely appreciated the availability to purchase anything on street corners, ranging from ancient medicinal healing formula to flowers for my hair.

In the extremes of Pleasantville (also known as Redwood City), where tree leaves simply dissipate rather falling as normal leaves, thus preserving the crisp landscaped walk-ways, where the DVDs and CDs are kept un-sensored on shelves by the door in the public library and where  the “privileged people” live out stories of private intrigue- preferring to remain anonymous in their activities. They float by as the people who  live to work, rather than working to live.

It is with great appreciation that I dub San Francisco one of the most welcoming cities I have ever attempted to move to…With the MUNI, BART and Caltrain, the city hosts one of the top ten transit systems in the world. Unlike London, or Dublin where tourists are welcomed with open arms, then booted unceremoniously out once the wallet runs dry, and in stark juxtaposition to New York City where the fleeting tourist can end up spending a life time partying in circles, San Fran takes a relaxed approach to unveiling itself.

 It offers the Bridge Tour- including but not limited to: the Bay Bridge, The Oakland Bridge and of course the Golden Gate for the first walking tour of the city. It has the museum tour: ranging from the classical pieces presented at The Legion of Honor, to the De Young with it’s limited engagement openings and of course there is SFMOMA- an architectural design so grand that taking in Mario Botta’s building may be enough of an experience without even going inside.

In San Fran the days slip into weeks, slip into months  and you find yourself taking weekend trips to San Carlos to explore the quaint stores of Laurel Street (a trip to the local cobbler for colorful storytelling is a must), taking day trips to Fort Funston- a dog lover’s utopia and introvert’s hell, for brilliant whale watching opportunities. Or perhaps you travel to Half-Moon Bay where good books can be purchased by smell alone (the stronger the smell = the older/better the book) and cliche sea-side art is readily available for purchase, (including long strands of sea-glass roped together into a 70s style door curtain).


If what I named off what not enough to temp you: remember, there is a huge- deluxe spa culture available here, including full body scrape, You can have young skin again!
There is the Castro district- if you really want to learn to party..
And perhaps most importantly there is Occupy Oakland- one of most extreme  and volatile Occupy Camps in the world at the moment.
But don’t take my word for it, come visit yourself, and be sure to check out Alexander Books, the largest independent bookstore in the Bay Area to find out more information/better information for yourself.

Holiday Travel: is it worth it?

Now is the best and worst time to travel, for the holiday season is upon us.


It is the best time to travel because there is a definitive excitement in the air. People scurry about in airports and onto buses clutching larger-than-necessary bags. The RyanAir flight attendants were actually nice to me on my last trip.  Jerome kindly handed me a napkin to put under my drooling neighbor’s chin as he napped upon my shoulder.
 
All over the world people are willingly scrambling into the mad crush of pre-holiday shopping to accomplish last minute errands. To me this manifests hope. No, I am not impressed by the ridiculously-sized-bright-red-box-that-you-are -struggling-to-carry-down-the-street-sir, nor am I impressed with the commercialism of it all.  But I am impressed with the best kept secret in the world, Santa Claus. I am impressed with the people who take time to indulge in age-old family  traditions. And I am impressed with the load of customs in the world which I have yet to discover and participate in!
 
The Irish are preparing for Santa’s arrival by baking Shephard’s Pies and buying extra pints of Guinness to be left by the fireside on Christmas Eve. Apparently Santa stops in Ireland for dinner before heading to the USA  for a desert of milk and cookies. I have been informed that like Valentine’s Day, Saint Patrick’s Day and Halloween, the tradition of placing a round wreath of holly in the windows and the tradition of kissing under the mistletoe originated in Ireland. Holly is a dominate bush here, and mistletoe can be found on almost every tree. The red berries of the Holly are said to bring good luck to the family as long as they are in the window. It is considered bad luck to take down any Christmas decorations before Little Christmas (January 6th). Also, in case you want to know, originally mistletoe was only good for as many kisses as there were berries on the sprig…Nollaig Shana Duit!
 
In Holland bakers create intricate window displays composed entirely of marzipan sweets; you have but to imagine any figure you like and it will be made for you. Street vendors selling frites, appleflappens and steaming Stroopwaffles, dripping molten Caramel, temp the browsing shopper at Christmas Markets. Saint Nicolas and his servant Rupert often appear at the markets, miraculously starring in simultaneous appearances all over the country it seems. On December 6th every child in the family receives a treat in his or her shoes, rather than getting presents in a stocking on December 25th. On the eve of December 6th, children place Marzipan carrots out on the doorstep for Saint Nick’s horses, shine their shoes and decorate a place-matt upon which to leave their shoes. If the child has been naughty during the year he or she is given a birch switch rather than the traditional chocolate initials of his or her first name…
Vrolijk Kersteest en een Gelukkig Nieuwjaar!
 
In France families in the country have begun burning their yule fire and will continue to do so until Christmas Day. In the city people have yule cakes, cakes wrapped into log shape, to eat instead. The tradition of having a Christmas tree is still rather new for the French, but is catching on quickly. The tree is brought into the house a few days before Christmas and left undecorated in a stand. On December 24th children leave their shoes out by the tree and overnight Pere Noel fills the shoes with presents and decorates the tree. It is also a new tradition to leave a yule log cake out for Pere Noel, he needs a snack between dinner in Ireland and desert in the USA apparently…Joeyoux Noel!

Even I must concede that the holidays can be the worst times for travel. Every year thousands of people get stranded in airports due to over packed flights, snowstorms or delays. People over-spend on epic vacations and presents, drawing-up debt with Scrooge collectors. Sometimes all of the travel just does not seem worth it even after you arrive, once in a while you realize you would rather just be at home.

“The holidays are lonely for adults” Pat-the-dictionary-man sagely observes. His wife died in July, this will be the first year in fifty-six years she isn’t at his side on Christmas morning. “This holiday season is for the children really”, my employers tell me with condescending head nods. Their extended families do not get along, therefore holidays simply present opportunities for strife…
 
But for me the holidays are what you make them. This year I have been granted the privilege of introducing Thanksgiving Day to the Irish neighborhood of Dunany. Though this is a traditional USA holiday, for me it is the meaning behind the day which carries the significance, not the place or the specific holiday dishes. My Irish neighbors were intrigued by my customs, participating fully in the days events including eating my slightly-crispier-than-normal-meal and fulfilling my Thanksgiving Day to the utmost carrying-on a rousing discussion of what we Should and Should Not be thankful for in general…
It is my hope that as the holiday season progresses I in turn will be able to partake in their traditions as gracefully and joyfully as they did in mine, celebrating the event and the time itself, no matter where the shoes and stockings hang,  no matter where I am, nor who I am with.  And may that be truly said of all of us; so as Tiny Tim observed “Gee that goose is as big as me!”

London Calling For Under 100 Quid









As anyone who has ever traveled knows, the journey does not commence with the arrival. It begins with the departure. The adventure starts as you rush to the airport at half-four for your red-eye flight. The momentum grows as you are patted-down “for your own safety” in security, a mere 15 minutes before your flight is due to leave. You begin to question your decision to travel in the first place as you step out of the Ryanair boarding line to re-pack your one carry-on item. Kneeling on the dank airport floor you throw on two sweaters, stuff a tennis-shoe in each pocket of your jacket and add a second scarf about your neck. The bag closes, you board the 757, the only seat left on the plane is next to a screaming child. You sigh and take the seat, with all the flight-attendants selling non-taxable items in-flight you probably wouldn’t have gotten any shut-eye anyway.

After breezing through customs your initial reaction upon stepping onto English soil  is to stare, temporarily stupefied at the bustle of red buses, black taxi-cabs and at the monocomatically dressed Londoners. Then good ‘ole English common sense takes over and you head to the nearest underground station, hop The Tube, minding the gap while boarding and attend to the business of hosteling. Under no circumstances is it a wast of time to check-in to the hostel while it is still light; knowing where you are going to sleep for the night, getting free city maps upon check-in, having a place to drop your bags and an opportunity to gain some first-hand “go see’s” and “skip that’s” from fellow travelers as you all crowd around a city map on the dorm room floor make the journey worth it. While filling out paperwork at the hostel reception you may discover that the male receptionist is a fellow traveler, turned Londoner from the same county in the United States as you are! Needless to say this will ensure you a pub date later that evening, providing you an opportunity to discuss the politics and gossip of Stateside life.

The majority of tourist attractions are popular for a reason- the National Museum of London is one such example. It is the largest free museum in England. It houses a varied collection works including Byzantine art, Seurat, Monet, Manet and Holbein. It also has some wonderful couches in it. If your feet are aching and you feel a brief snooze is necessary to tide you over until the evening, drop onto a couch and take a five minute power-nap. After dozing you may  want to become acquainted your fellow Snoozers- Nathan and his new wife, Alice hail from Kent. They  traveled to London for their honeymoon. After a long night -cough cough, blush- they felt they needed a moments respite and a “cupa” before soldiering on through the museum. You should always take advantage of such “cupa” opportunities, a tea including new acquaintances and a learning curve is much pleasanter than a meal alone.

 Just outside the National Museum in Trafalgar Square cliche photo opportunities are available at any moment. In such high-profile areas feel free to stop any nearby attractive boy to take a photo of you, and maybe with you, so that all of your solo-travel pictures are not MySpace profile pictures. There is no shame in peace signs, smiling or fun faces in travel photos. Facial expressions tell volumes.
Currently there is  a commercial campaign for VIENNA taking place in the Square. This means you have the opportunity to repel face-forwards off a 40 foot high wall for free. (Just make sure the boy you hand your camera too understands how to use it and does not accidentally turn it off thereby missing some grand photo ops as you are suspended 30 feet above his head.)

From Trafalgar Square it is an quick jaunt to Westminster via Buckingham Palace. (It never hurts to wave hello to the royals and their black-hatted guards as you pass by.) By popping into the Queen’s Museum you’ll find that Queen Elizabeth II has impeccable floral hats and spends thousands of pounds supporting women’s rights and literacy across the world annually.

 Westminster Abby and Big Ben should be viewed twice while in London: during the day for historical viewings and the chance to hear the resounding hourly-clanging, and at night when the towers and flying buttresses are alight with an ethereal glow of low energy lamps. (If you arrive at Westminster around eight PM you can see the Prime minister and cabinet members pouring from their conference rooms in droves.You may also be able to note how few people are actually in the “Occupy London” tents when offered a thermal image of the tents by local police.)

Heading back up to Leicester Square just before dark you might arrive in time to see Minnie Driver tumble on the red carpet (her heel stuck between two cobble stones, thinly veiled beneath the red velvet rug) for the BFI Film Festival or you might grab five-quid tickets to a premier, perhaps  Anonymous at the Odeon Theater.

If cinema does not catch your fancy head over to the South Bank, toward the London Eye and pick up a ticket from the National Theater or The Globe for twelve pounds. With the National’s intimate seating project you could end up sitting by an attractive English bloke who not only sounds intelligent with his Surrey accent, but is also the Assistant Production Manager of the Cheek-by-Jowl Theater Troupe. (For future reference attractive men found alone in the theater probably work in the theatre. Therefore it is not advisable to gush about experimental theater and new-works. It may turn out that bloke-Nathanial is a well known experimental and new work author…)

Finally the issue of re-visitation has to be addressed. Many people check a city off the travel list once they have spent a day or two in the premises. “Been there. Done that. Got the coffee mug.” That is utter nonsense. No city can be fully explored, not in a few days, nor in a few weeks. (If you think otherwise perhaps you better take a better self- look before you begin traveling again.)
 
If you have visited London once or twice before and are starting to feel stretched for new explorations this time around, think again, think local, think childhood and think everyday. There are hundreds of venues awaiting examination, just off the tourist path. The Hayward Museum is currently hosting Pipilotto Rist with the award-winning Eyeball Massage instillation. Fresh hot-cross buns are being made up in Angel’s Bakery. The
Queen’s Walk and Camden Town are true local hang-outs, both providing the perfect mix of stall-shopping and Londoner cuisine. If you are hopelessly desperate from something to do, pretend you are Irish, tarry in the nearest English pub. The bright lighting, glistening surfaces and lightbeer will be an educational experience.


Eventually the journey comes full circle, with your wallet a few pounds
 lighter you bus back to the airport, find your flight is delayed due to inclimate weather, stranding you in that all together too familiar airport (See Intrepid Trekking- London) for the night. When an attempt to claim the pre-pay massage-chair as your sleeping turf is foiled you step outside for some fresh air, and with a nod to true smoking culture share a cigarette with a Swead. You then spend the next seven hours of that interminable night pontificating on life, women and revealing your deepest secrets to that blond-haired, green eyed stranger. In the morning you are off, bleary-eyed and hungry, bound for an 8AM call after a red-eye flight. The adventure of everyday life resumes. The lust for London lives on, barely sated.

Beacon: Dia, NYC Day Trip 2








Have you ever had a day where you feel that you just need to get out of the city? Well taking a mini day trip to Dia is the perfect thing to remedy such urges, and the best part is it is simple and easy to plan! From Grand Central Terminal you can purchase a day-travel package to Beacon Station, New York, with a Dia Museum ticket included for just $30. Metro-North trains run up to Beacon every hour so you don’t have to panic about departure times.

Don’t let yourself be fooled by this seeming long train ride. Boarding the train is the beginning of your day trip. Metro-North trains travel at high speeds across the countryside. Within minutes of your departure you will come above ground, wave “goodbye” to the grit of Upper Harlem and cross into the shockingly picturesque countryside of New York state. Merely minutes outside of the city traffic you pull into the small Riverdale station composed of a single concrete platform. Directional signs offer two options: “To New York City” or “Outbound”. As you are not in an Archie Comic you remain on the train heading outbound past Yonkers, The New York City Water Refinery, The Domino Sugar Factory and out into the trees which grow up the sheer face walls of the Hudson River Valley. Out, out, out you travel on the whirring train until the conductor finally crackles the words “Beacon up next” over the quieter-than-a-loud-speaker-microphone.
You fall out of the train into the scene of a small town. Lilly-pads float in algae-fresh water, while kids run up and down the open wooden piers unchaperoned over the river.  Before you Canadian geese unconcernedly block the road; the line of three cars behind them do not honk nor attempt to run them over, but rather seem content waiting for the geese-crossing to take it’s course. A small green sign points you up the hill to Dia. Like any good New Yorker you look about for a taxi to take you up that hill, but seeing none set off on foot. Dia sits in the valley of hill you just climbed; it is a long low brick building dwarfed by it’s carefully pruned shrubbery. The sight of a parking lot filled with trees and cars, along with a stretching green side lawn offers startling evidence of rural-life to the city dweller.
When the square Dia pin  is safely attached to your shirt you are finally allowed to step inside this temperature controlled space. Here the world shifts for you. This seemingly low-lying building belies the vast spaces it harbors inside. Old, warped wooden floors give off a loved smell of wax, as the white studio-style walls almost blind you with their simplicity and cleanliness. The curator has planned every inch of this show wonderfully. Each artist has received an area larger than your entire apartment for their pieces and for their empty space, (a necessity between the pieces of this magnitude).
The main hallway presents itself with a view of Knoevel’s work, while Flavin’s neon lights hum in the next corridor over. Gerhard Richtor presents “mirrors into life now…” or “doors into the world beyond…” with megalithic gray mirrored glass wall-mounts, LeWitt’s drawings of the “Simple and Super-imposed” force the viewers head into a mathematical place, in an unequivocal cry for consolidation between the right and left sides of the brain, while Bourgeois harbors  the darker upstairs to herself, presenting some of the most disturbing pieces of the show with her “nightmare” and “the-self” exploration. Richard Serra’s cast walls will form a pit in your stomach, thinking about the sheer weight of such metal and the delicate balance it is suspended from. You will pray there is not a strong breeze as you stand directly in the center of Tilted Arch, straining your ears against  the new sound barrier you crossed upon walking into this piece. You will also find yourself guilty of attempting  to breath normally as the humidity in the air expands to about 35% within the iron walls.
The museum should take you about three hours to walk in total, after which a brief lunch (packed from home or purchased at the museum bookstore) in the side gardens among the sun and shrubbery will fortify you for the next phase of the trip: the exploration of small town Beacon.

Beacon is one of those towns where Main Street is actually the main street. At the far end of Main-the public library can be found, as well as the city’s grocery store and one tiny take-out Chinese restaurant. But what this town really has in abundance is artists and tourist supplies. Store fronts boast windows full of nick-knacks meant to temp the Dia-Day goer: A Harley-Davidson/Spiritual Healing store offers Palm reading for $10.  A local Ice Cream store sells hand-made Popsicles (all created from locally-grown fruits and vegetables except for the Peruvian Lucuma pop, marketed as “the OMG good pop”). All You Knead, is the local bakery, Foxy’s hair salon, the main barbers and Max’s on Main is the main pub of the town, Max is the owner and bartender.

After a few drinks, (Max will always buy back the second beer) and a tour of the refurbished fire-house, now a glass-blowing studio (one has to wonder what happens if there is a fire?) it is time to head back to NYC and reality. If you time it right you can catch the inbound express train which delivers you back under the starry roof of Grand Central Terminal in less that thirty minutes. But remember this is a day trip, don’t be in such a rush to leave that you do not stop to swing for a moment at the river-side park, nor should you skip the chance to purchase some bazooka bubble gum from the Kicks-for-Kids toy store on the corner (Bazooka comics are as bad today as they were in the 80’s and 90’s). Finally you should never turn down a ride to the train station from Marty, a local restaurant owner who owns a white Mercedes Benz, even if the station is less than a five minute walk away…
Coming back to New York City will be just as wonderful as you had hoped. Now you are back on your own turf, after a day of playing the tourist it is nice to be a “local” again. On the ride home you will hop subway, perhaps you will help a lost tourist or new-comer to the city with some directions, then you will get off at your stop and as you climb the stairs into your own apartment allow the thrill of having so many people around you sink in. New York is not the small town where everyone knows your business and says “hello” as you walk down the street. This is the city where everyone works to know who they want, and does not have to care about anyone else. And that is the perfect way to live.

The New New Yorker: THE FIRST TEN DAYS


 

Day One: The differences between arriving into a “vacation city” and arriving into a city you intend to call “home” are vast. For those of you who wish to start your next move with optimism and a feeling of general comfort (as opposed to the crushing oblivion of insignificance or a feeling of intense inferiority), it would be better that you not look out the window of your 747 as it lands. Nor should you chat up the baggage handler in Baggage Claim because he will without a doubt, cryptically wish you: “good luck” and then laugh as he walks away.
No, to arrive into a city, such as The Big Apple one must pretend that you already belong there, thereby establishing a no-nonsense relationship with your: taxi-driver, hotel clerk and Subway ticket machine. It is the only way to survive.
Day Two: It is always a good idea to wonder about a city when one first arrives. Getting lost is generally the most efficient way of finding the city’s best kept nooks and secrets. However, a word of caution about getting lost: it is equally important to note from whence you originate as noting where you end up. By memorizing these things you save yourself the experience of terminating your day leaning heavily on a subway wall and feeling slightly ill from the terrible pretzel you bought at a street corner earlier. (A corner you would be certain to avoid in the future if only you could remember which corner it was exactly). You might also spare yourself the tragedy of wearing spectacular grease stains on the front of your coat, souvenirs from eating at the best Pizzeria in Manhattan (where they make New York pizza folding an art); alas if only you knew which train or wandering path you took to get to that pizza!
Day Three: A city is only as good as it’s transit system they say. Therefore be sure you do some serious research before moving onto a specific train line in a borough. If you don’t you could find yourself living on the L-train for example. This really is not a bad train, except it is simply a shuttle. There is no way to get to Upper Queens or Lower Brooklyn without circling over into the city and without braving the buses. And then there are the weekends there is track work: 3-4 weekends a month and sometimes nights the train will simply not run. Then what do you do?  Did you know that the 7-train crosses through more than 67 languages as it makes its way from Downtown to Upper Queens? However, it also runs with less consistency than any other train in Manhattan. Furthermore, the J and the C-trains have higher crime and stabbings rates than any other city trains combined and the M-train only acts as a shuttle on weekends. As you can tell:  if a city is only as good as it’s transit system; there is  a lot to learn about transit.
Day Four: If one really wants to be a New Yorker one must act exasperated and aloof from all holidays. July 4th, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are times when real New Yorkers stay at home. They avoid the crowds by drinking in the comfort of their own air-conditioned flats. One must display the proper sentiment of disgust when speaking with acquaintances of “those people” who cram onto the LIRR heading to Long Beach, or “those people” who travel to the Hamptons for a single day. A real New Yorker would never brave the crowds to see such a touristy thing as fire-works or find themselves spending two hours in a cramped Coney-Island bound subway. New Yorkers know that on Coney Island the only things which can possibly happen to you are: A. being shat on by pigeons  and  B.ending up in/taking some tourist’s photos. But above all, a true New Yorker knows not to go out on Puerto Rican Day. One of the most celebrated days of the year in the city it includes: parades of low-riding and streamered cars, blarring salsa music and half-dressed people scampering about waving national flags. For once Seinfeld had it right, if American’s celebrated independence Day the way Puerto Rican’s celebrate Puerto Rican Day, there would be a lot more patriotism in the country. 
Day five: If one is not careful one can easily label oneself as a “blow-in” simply by the way you walk. Do you stride briskly forward? Or worse, do you walk slowly, causally, your steps reveling your dazed state at being in such an immense city? That is quite simply a mistake; no New Yorker strides or meanders. This would never do considering the amount of ground they may cover any given day. No, New Yorker’s do not rush. They do not appear to be in a hurry to get somewhere, they simply get there quickly leaving the rest of the world wondering how they did it. Further more, as a female one must learn to function in heels. You must learn to treat them as if they were mere trifles, not potentially lethal weapons attached to the bottoms of your aching feet. 
For example: As a Blow-In you will puff your way up three flights of steps and across the 14th street pathway only to arrive at the platform as the doors snap shut on your Uptown-3 Express. As a Rookie you may have the urge to dejectedly watch the train pull out of the station without you on it. Then you will curse at the inconvenience and injustice of it all and spin about in a futile circle looking for someone to commiserate with. (At this moment it is advisable to note that New Yorker’s never commiserate. Commiseration requires eye contact, a thing which is to be limited at all costs. Along a similar vein excess movement, including futile circles only draws attention to oneself and illustrates how woefully incapable one is of dealing with the city’s challenges.)
Approximately a quarter way through your futile spin you will notice a woman at your three o’clock. She will be stoically thickening her eye liner to the point where it seems she could rival Cleopatra. You will stare at her (completely disregarding the canon rules about eye contact and invisibility), and it will her alright, the woman you shoved past back at that first set of stairs on the 6th Avenue stop. Now here she is standing next to you, apparently having arrived only seconds after you without puffing, cursing or turning in circles. And she is in heels. How did she do it? One of your greatest fears about this city should be that you will never know the answer to that question and thus will never be apart of the New York elite.

  

Day Six: You must always notice all facets of the city subtly. The truth is everyone enjoys staring in this city. Seriously, everyone loves gawking, (never opened-mouthed mind you for fear a pigeon will drop something unpleasant into the mouth), but looking intently, unabashedly at the historic skyscrapers, at the homeless man with no legs and huge open-gauges on his arms, at the monochromatic graffiti on the inside of the Subway walls, at the Europeans gesticulating ferociously over their neon city-maps (you can tell they are European by the excess amount of pockets in their suave, black coats) and at the make-shift mariachi band playing down the subway car or on the street corner.
However, this is just not acceptable on a daily basis. As a New Yorker as previously noted with national holidays, one has the duty of being aloof. It is one’s job to seemingly ignore the breathtaking blue and gold ribbed ceiling of Grand Central Station. It is one’s obligation to resist the temptation to halt and stand mooning up at the architecture around you, temporarily mesmerized by the history playing out in your head.
It is entirely unacceptable for one to pause outside the New York Public Reference Library every time you pass in order to pay homage to such grandiose marble and to the lions. Rather as a New Yorker you are obliged to scurry past seemingly unimpressed by the impregnable fortress. This is your everyday life now, living in “the greatest city in the world”, it does not go well to stare.
Day Seven: New York post cards are for tourists. While it is entirely acceptable to pick out a tacky card , then write something clever on the front in Sharpy and send it off to a friend. It is not alright to find a card featuring a bird’s eye view of the Empire State Building then purchase it for yourself as a souvenir-cramming it into your purse and pretending it was for a friend in the first place will not hide the deed you have just done from yourself or the Indian store-owner. You live in the city with that historic building. You do not need to buy a post-card to prove that you have seen it; walk down the street and look at it. A word of caution: be careful to keep a good distance away as more people have committed suicide by jumping from that building than any other building in the world. (Don’t worry the majority of them were in the 20s)
Day Eight: Always keep in mind that you are now in New York City now. Seeing Johnathan Deans of Spiderman: Turn Off theDark or sitting across from Mary Poppins lead, Asheley Brown is a routine thing. It is not appropriate New York behavior to oogle at the stars you see. They are trying to have a normal everyday life too. When you look at them and say something along the lines of “You’re so-and-so. It is very nice to meet you!” in a slightly higher pitched voice than is socially acceptable, not only draws unwanted attention to the star (if they were previously incognito), but also shortens your moment of glory being next to them, as they will inevitably move away from the rude person drawing attention to them.
Day Nine: When acclimating to the area it is important to assimilate to the customs around you. It could be as small a thing as observing the silence within the train car, complete but for the repetitive recorded announcer or the cannon of holding yourself at least one foot away from other people at all times (thus ensuring isolation of personal space, even at crowded street corners and at rush-hour).
However, one thing which is appropriate to assimilate into is the Bystander Effect. If for example someone gets sick on your train it is your job as the recent arrival to call the train’s conductor for help and to make sure that assistance comes to fruition. Otherwise the person may simply go on being sick or injured without anyone mentioning their illness because you, like everyone around you has assumed that someone else on that crowded subway has already taken care of the issue. This general lack of interest in assisting others does not come because New Yorkers are a cruel race of citizens, but rather from the desire keep a nonchalant profile. 

Please note that the Bystander Law does not overlap into direction-giving. If you so much as look lost at least three New Yorkers will clamber to give you instructions to your destination before you even have time to pull out a map. Giving directions is a mark of possession in this city, like a dog peeing on a fire hydrant: direction giving says I know my way around and I belong here”. It is a form of self-validation, hidden inside a good deed.

Day Ten: It takes six months to decide if you hate or love the city. If you hate it there is no alternative, you must immediately vacate the vicinity and not squander any more time there. If however, you fall in love with the city then know that the love will last forever. Small spheres of people will begin to be recognizable in your everyday life, the friendly lady at the Trader Joe’s checkout, the man in the plaid suit who is always on your 10am train, the old woman next-door who comes out at exactly 11am each morning to clip fresh flowers in her garden…Over time these small intricacies will be what makes the city yours. Even if you never find a way to: walk quickly in heels, visit touristy sites as a local, or eat folded New York Pizza correctly, as the new New Yorker you will still begin to belong. Integrations is part of what makes this city so wonderful-because really, in what other place is everyone so desperate that they are willing to make friends with anyone over the smallest bond?

Egypt

Marhaba,
Straight out of the airport it began, the harassment because we were women. “Taxi for 500, yes ladies nice ride for you..” Lewd gesture included. As the sun rose Amber and I scrambled over to the far end of the parking lot walking towards the white vans that act as buses. “Giza Giza Giza” a man screamed out the door of one such van as it flew past us. Grabbing Amber I propelled her into the moving bus, I jumped in after. We were taking on Giza first.
Steps into the entry way of the pyramids I was caught by the horses milling around the entrance. Many had been poorly fed or treated but two beauties at the back of the heard caught my eye, like any other tourist. I rode an Arabian horse, a beautiful mare named Kushna around the Pyramids and the Great Sphinx. Muhammund, my guide allowed me to gallop into the Sahara Desert behind the pyramids at full tilt I lit into the torrid desert. The intense heat beating down, the crush of hooves on sand and the creaking of the leather stirrups as we ran spelled freedom to me.
While I galloped Amber climbed into Khufu, the largest Pyramid. She said the shaft downwards was at at least a nine-percent grade and was cery narrow. Amber now wants to be an Egyptologist.

The pyramids are fenced off from the city and tourists are generally contained in buses. We did not have a bus, instead we climbed the fence with our guide Muhumund and followed him to his home to meet his wife and three children. There we drank hot chai and ate an array of spiced foods vegetables and meats that Amber insisted “tasted like Egypt”. Sitting on woven mats on the floor of a collapsing brick building we learned words in Arabic, for hello, Marhaba, thank you, shukran, etc. As she cooked Mocara, Muhumund’s wife took off her head scarf. I felt honored to see her bare head and to see get to speak with her in her home. The brief afternoon we spent with her was the last time we saw someone (who was not a tourist,) without a headscarf for the rest of our time in Egypt. My sarong acted as my turban for the duration of my trip after leaving their house.
Muhumund paraded us around his little village Kaifia while everyone called greetings to him and then to us. The children darted forewords to touch our clothing and windblown hair. They were fascinated by my nose ring. It was called beautiful and tugged at many times. Although we declined smoking churras with the village men, we drank Egyptian Whiskey and sat just off the main street with the village men all pulled up near us on mismatched chairs. Time was our own here, there was no sense of urgency as the trash stagnated in the clogged ditch behind us. I loved the familiarity of the villagers with one another. All of the children playing together in the street. The women balancing huge cabbages on their heads, carrying jars of water from the one water-spicket. The amount of trash was alarming. When we finished our water bottles Muhumund took them and threw them onto the ground. I watched women dump piles of trash out their doors onto main street, dead cats, boxes, plastic bags, plastic and glass bottles clogged the small rivers and overran the earth along sidewalks and roadsides. Donkey drawn wooden carts plodded over trash along the roads as taxis- cars literally pieced together with wood, and stolen parts from other vehicles-whizzed past. There is an entire language of horn honking in Egypt, especially from the white taxi buses (old BMW Buses)HONK: “I’m passing on the left” (no one has blinkers), “your beautiful”, “move out of the way”, “I’m cool”, “do you need a ride?”…. The list goes on, it is a country-wide language.

We hopped an overnight train to Luxor. Although it was meant to be a tourist train we could not afford the luxury car and instead sat together in a seat near the crowded back of the train. Militia men marched up and down the car all evening. It was a restless night for both of us. Upon arrival we traveled to see the Luxor temples, and Karnak Temple. Amber and I walked down the path of Sphinxes awed by the detail of each. Recently archeologists have discovered a linking path between Luxor and Karnak. The digging for this will begin soon. Achmed, a man who looked like a Mafia member (and can only be an Egyptian native, as no one else could wear jeans and a leather jacket in such heat) is devastated by this, as it means his house (of his family) which lies in the middle of the two temples will soon be destroyed. We saw the Papyrus hall, where the column tops explain the roof: closed topped papyrus columns mean there was a roof. Blooming, open papyrus columns mean there never was a roof. Remnants of wet-plastered Christian murals, placed over Egyptian cartushes still remained in many places. We looked at huge holes which had been cut into the temple buildings by Alexander the Great’s soldiers, when they used the temple as the horse stable. We looked at bat blood which had been ritually spattered over the sacrifice stones at the center of the temples for years as modern Egyptians continue the worship of ancient times…

Across the Nile, on Luxor’s West Bank we climbed into 3 tombs of the 60 in the Valley of the Kings (Specifically Ramses II, Ramses IX and Seti I). Amber also went into King Tut’s tomb, which cost 100 LE (Egyptian Pounds)extra. We haggled with a taxi diver and eventually arrived at Hatshepsut’s Temple a frighteningly massive structure secured in the nook of Saharan cliffs. I use the word ‘frighteningly’ because for the majority of time we were at Hatshepsut’s Temple we kept thinking of the tourist massacre that happened there not too long ago. The valley of the temple is immensely wide, open and expansive. There would be no where to go if the guards, who were patrolling the hills above us decided to open fire. We saw the Valley of Queens next, I believe our conversation in that place when something like this:

Me: Why are queens portrayed as kneeling women with beards? While the men get to stand and have crowns?
Amber: I’m hot
Me:Why are there no female guards here? Or even female workers for that matter?
Amber: Okay, seriously I’m hot.
me:Why do all these men keep trying to cover my hair for me? I do not want to cover my head!
Amber: Dude, it’s so hot.

Most of the tombs have been badly raided. Faces are missing from the majority of the hieroglyphic images and today you can only see holes in the ground to suggest where sarcophagus’s once laid. It was still amazing to walk down into long tunnels, out of the sun, and think of the history and the art all created for the Pharaoh’s journey into the god world. I found thinking of the deaths of servants during all of this (the ones who were buried alive with the pharaohs). But that was me being morbid I suppose.
The Egyptian President was visiting while we were on the West Bank so we could not take a Felucca (sail boat) across the Nile. However, we did walk a narrow plank onto a motor boat and spend some time on the cool water. The papyrus growing on the riverbank, the lilies and the abundant flowers were beautiful. The green was very shocking after the yellow, white, orange and brown of the desert.

I loved the neon lights on the mosques everywhere, the constant calling of prayers; All day prayers flew through the air, saturating the dry air with chanting. I find I am jealous of their ability to stay connected with god so easily. It is a wonderful thing to have faith in prayer. I was impressed that each house had a satellite dish. It was a sea of satellites and wires on the rooftops. ‘Kitties’ and wild dogs roamed the streets in packs. Palm trees sprung up at odd angle around holes in the generally non-existent sidewalk.
In one bazaar I ended up buying packets of indigo,dried Egyptian hibiscus (for tea along) with some frankincense, musk and chamomile.-I bought the spices that i thought smelled the most like Egypt.- Amber bought red, leather Egyptian house slippers and a Neferetiti bracelet.
We are both much better at haggling now, and we got fairly good prices for everything we bought. We are also much braver in concern with many things: running into moving traffic, running along side trains and hopping on, hanging out the side door of buses while they fly down highways, riding camels, and being defiant in the face of dominate men…
The hassling was the impressive and the most abrasive thing about Egypt. – Other than Cairo’s air quality (air so thick in smog that you could not see the building 20 feet away from you).-I got proposed to 12 times, after that I stopped counting. Being unmarried is just unacceptable for a young woman. People would ask me: Christian or Muslim? There is no other choice. When I would reply “neither” I would immediately find myself in the arms of a man who was worried for my soul, offering to take care of me and to teach me to be a Good Arabic Wife. I heard the words “you are beautiful” so many times I began to equate it with those silly comments people said like: “welcome to our country! Welcome to Alaska!”…
Also, I now know I want to go to the Middle East and India. I love the vibrancy of life, the openness of the emotions, the fact that it is popular to always have indi music blasting from your cell phone. I love the way two men greet each other (hand clasp and then two kisses on the cheek), the way everyone walks, not with the American strut, but a walk of purpose as if they know their place in the world and are secure in it. I find it fascinated and lovely the way that people take the time- at least 5 times a day-to find Allah. I love how they are instantly and so easily transported  to Allah when they pray.

Before I go back I need to either find a man to go with me, since traveling as a woman is just not acceptable. Or I need to learn the language. There were simply too many close calls and opportunities that I have loved to take but I couldn’t. I could not allow myself, as a woman in a foreign country to go out to dinner with a strange group of men or to take a welcome smoke, or even to drink the welcome drink. I could not leave my own travel group, since we did not have cell phones to go dancing with a young man I met Nady. My curiosity was often smothered by my caution. We were lucky the men were honest, we could not be too careful.
So that is it for this portion of my travels based out of Kasteel Well: 86 days, 10 countries, 32 cities and 4 pairs of shoes.

Montreal



It is amazing how you can be homesick without ever knowing it. Then one day you come home and a tsunami of belonging hits like an eddy of brick walls. It is the small things upon arriving that make the difference: While on the Adirondack from Penn Station to Montreal the Canadian Customs officers simply take a courtesy glance at most passengers passports and wave them past. I am certain that my return trip will not merit such ease of passage. When climbing the escalator into the Gare Central The Depanneur catches my eye, a Spar in the middle of the Sahara. I creep towards the check out counter, willing my eyes upwards until I am directly in front of the clerk. I glance down, a riot of color brazes my eyes-Dark Chocolate Kit-kats, Bounty bars, Yorkies, and Areo’s splay across the narrow shelves. The brilliance of the foreign brands strikes me with nostalgia not for the treats, but for the people who support such variety. 
The Island of Montreal is the smallest big city you will ever explore. Filled with government funded support for the arts and a Canadian’s love of music Montreal holds more music festivals in one summer than most Mid-West US cities do in a year. Every Sunday the Festival Electronique takes place on Parc Jean-Drapeau on Ite Sainte-Helene and hundreds of people dance the techno nod under the “L’homme”. In the Place des Artes Frances Follies takes place on the square, celebrating French musicians in live performance while locals recline on the green hillsides drinking Molsen, (equivalent to Canadian Budweiser), and watching children or adorable couples play in the dancing fountains of the plaza. Having noted all this, it is also important to enter such small yet expansive cities with preparedness. Finding yourself hovering under the main rotunda without money, mobile, internet or any idea of how to contact your friends can leave one feeling distinctly idiotic, particularly when the situation has the dulcet tone of familiarity to it.

In such cases it is pertinent that you do not panic, do not sprint for the nearest SORTIE sign. Despite its friendly, neon-red letters this sign is not a Hitchhiker’s sign sent to assist the dim traveler. Rather stay seated in one place and have faith that your friends understand how under-prepared you always are. Therefore they will rescue you and march you home to a luxury apartment on the fifth floor, which is not a walk-up.
Seventy percent of the city’s office space is underground in the complex tunnel system known as the RESO. Here a second city is glorified out of cement extending the Latin Quarter, China town and capitalistic for miles in a limelight special of carefully selected high end boutiques and capitalistic temptations. Above ground the downtown of this clean city stands in the shadow of Mount Royal. While not an epic feat of exercise this is a must-climb of the city. It is an adventure which involves dehydration, sunburn and thick humidity at 0,700am on a summer morning. (As a personal recommendation I suggest leaving your hosts in bed for a well deserved break from you.) Spend some quality time scrambling up recently soaked pathways, past the smoking tree, probably struck by lightning in last night’s heat storm and finally crest the pinnacle where any nature withdrawal you may have been feeling dissipates while your labored breathing eases. To the South-Montreal extends out, floating in the last morning fog; to the North smaller settlements stem out of sight, but just beyond the horizon your imagination is boggled by the immensity of the Northern wilderness and possibilities living within it. 

The Musee d’arte contemporain de Montreal has one of the largest donated modern art collections in the world, 47% was donated in the last 10 years. It is also free on Wednesday evenings and large enough that you do not need to worry about beating the crowds to see the mirror works by Rober Racine or Louise Bourgeois’ The Red Room. Deja, the current collection on display is a wonderful inundation of Canadian pride and beliefs. Deja-a French word translated as “already” allows the art to focus on achievements that have already taken place. However, the collection also plays with the idea of deja vu, future things being recreated in pleasurable ways, thereby giving them familiarity, but also allowing memories to blossom. (www.macm.org) Personally the double projections of Shirin Neshat really hit home for me and judging by the reactions about me, for any woman who has ever felt isolated from society or herself.

The biosphere from Expo ’67 is still located on Parc Jean-Drapeau on Ite Sainte-Helene, and it is only a 5,50e metro ride away. Designed by Richard Buckminster Fuller it is not technically a full biosphere as part of the structure bends into the ground, and is no longer covered as the outer panels burned away in 1976. Upon approach to the structure such knowledge seems trivial, this is the biggest and most exciting jungle gym you will ever behold. It even rivals the high flying turrets of Notre-Dame Basillica of Montreal. Built in 1824-29 this church uses gothic revival and modern architecture to set it apart from the Parisian Notre-Dame.
Today the church is no longer used for masses, but instead acts a gateway in to Old Montreal and the Rue de Artes. Perhaps the most European district in the Northern hemisphere this quaint area is lined with terraces for outdoor meals. The streets are cobbled and stately men astride angry horses pose strategically between glowing fountains of Venus’ and flowering waterspouts. On a clear day you can see across the Fleuve Sainte-Laurent which isolates Montreal all the way to Lle Notre-Dame. If you are traveling on a low budget and are easily distracted by shiny objects this is the place for you. The Rue de Artes (Street of Artists) runs perpendicular to the heart of old Montreal. In here you will find signature Canadian jewelry made of crushed aluminum and dycroic shimmering dycroic glass. Or impossibly adorable trinkets from: hand painted birdhouses including signs that read “cheap rent” or “jailbirds” to video demonstrations assisting you in the proper etiquette and fit of a Cabana Hat (AKA Bucket Hats).
If you want a vacation go somewhere natural, original and culturally French,but without the attitude!

Budapest



I traveled to Budapest this Thanksgiving.
Upon arrival we (Amber and I) were by the lack of signs in English. Most countries thus far have catered to tourists assuming English as a second language or have at least had similar stem words.
Without any form of direction Amber and I jumped on the incorrect train, heading away from the city rather than into it. If we had not gotten lost we would have missed cinder block buildings which have been turned into massive tagging sites. We would never have noticed the carbon-coated windows and scooters smeared with red, blue and green spray paint. We would have left the country thinking of Western Europe, never dreaming of the slight campfires interspersed between rubbish piles. The hovels made of fabric strips and ragged plastic sheeting would not shield a thought from the world. But the people staring at the train as we passed were beautiful. Dressed in brilliant hues what were obviously original styles were clearly functional as well as a status of standing. We hopped off at the first opportunity and darted across the tracks to catch the inbound train; for a second in that confusion I channeled National Geographic in my mind-for one slight girl looked up from the fire she was poking and stared me directly in the eye. Her eyes looked violet.

Once in the city we ran into a group of Canadians who were going caving in the hills of Pest. There was no option but to join them. Our guide was a lanky man wearing a flaming helmet. Follow the flame he told us, and if it goes out back track as quickly as you can because it means we have run out of oxygen. As we crawled along he would call out directions as we army crawled through the slippery wet limestone at the 100% humidity saturated air under the city. “Turn your head about 45 degrees to the right and now slide foreword..” he would call as the ground surrounding us shoot when a train or lorry passed overhead. My eyes told me that it was impossible for my body to fit through such crawl spaces so many times I wanted to despair. Yet each timeI would find myself slithering through, amazed that I was still finding space to inch forward, often propelling my entire body weight with a single hand. Claustrophobia was also a good incentive. The faster I got through these tunnels and to the center, the sooner I could see the sky again. Amber had the time of her life, being short she was able to clamber up places I had to by-pass. She even went through the famous birth-hole at the center of the caves. She was reborn in Budapest.

The second day in the city brought us alongside the Duna River, past Parliament and then up to the Budapest Castle where we admired the view of the city along with all of the home made table cloths, doilies and sweets that were for sale to tempt the tourists. I bought nothing, finding it hard to justify one piece of bread for 450HUF. 

Once we had fully explored the free gardens of the castle we ducked into a labyrinth underneath the castle. Carved of limestone and brick the Budavari Barintus Elozetes Labyrinth of Courage is a coming of age test for Hungarians. As we walked the path the story unfolded: The sun has been captured by something evil and is now trapped at the end of the labyrinth. In order to get there we must conquer out fears of darkness and splash through water, around corners and about ghostlike Goddess statues while following a thin piece of twine until we come to the sun at the end. Amber clutched onto my purse, shoving me in front of her to feel out blindly in the dark. Without sight to guide us the echo of a heart drum beating, somewhere the center of the labyrinth sent chills down my spin as I carefully slid my fingers along the course rope fibers.

Once outside I insisted we find the highest point accessible, the battlements in the pouring rain to shake all the dirt off our skin. While there I found a life friend, a hawk. He stepped freely from his trainers arm onto mine, surprising us both. I grit my teeth as his talons bit into the glove on my arm. He balanced well, for I know my arm was not steady.

For theater in this city we attended “Sonnenfinsternis” a German opera and a the world premiere at the Budapest Opera House. Around us people were dressed in long evening gowns with tiaras and three-piece suits. Amber and I in our mud-encrusted jeans and black pea-coats hid in a bathroom stall until the lights dimmed before daring to sneak into our balcony seats of the house. I do not recall much of the opening act as I spent a good amount of time oogling the gold trim, wet frescos and opera boxes around us instead. However, during the second act I found myself distracted from the action onstage by the German words that were projected onto the set throughout the scenes. I understand the need for explanatory exposition. But this concept seemed to take it a bit far. Besides the design the technical aspects were extremely smooth, I even enjoyed the monochromatic color palate the use of multiple trap doors, electronic columns and inflatable set pieces. It was a very daring world premiere overall.

Nice and Belfast




Bonjour!
First I trained to Nice, France.  The trip was so long that I ought to have planned out my entire life, done a soul search, come back from that search and had plenty of time to rest and live in nirvana while on the train. Of course I did no such thing; instead I learned some French with the correct Parisian accent. I trained into Paris, through Brussels, Bruges and finally to South France. The pastoral scenery along the way was made me want to taste the altitude and funneled my dreams into rural farm houses. 
Nice was a picturesque place. I spent the first day gawking my way through the town town but simultaneously attempting to breathe quietly, afraid they would charge me for the oxygen traveling into my lungs. My hostel was located between a Louise Viton and a Gucci. The streets were lined with bird of paradise bushes and strategically placed marble statues. The entire city was laced with perfectly even cobblestones and brick sidewalks and roads. I found myself touring Chateau de Blu a hill to the West of the city. I then sat by the sea and stumbled, barefoot over the rocky beach. At low tide I collected sea glass and created a temporary sculpture in tribute to Andy Goldworthy. For sunset Amber and I drank Poor Man’s Mimosas on the beach as the sun went down.

While slightly tipsy we traveled to see Cirque du Soleil, Saltimbanco. It was an amazing show technically. I was amused to see spotlight operators handing from harnesses overheard. They bounced about on bungee cords directing their spots at the multiple stages. I have to admit I spent most of the time watching the techies work: the light board was a touch screen and allowed for the scrollers and movers (lights) to be controlled by hand. The Stage Manager calling the show was amazing too. EX: If the rope dancers were not ready, or there was some reason that they could not go on, the SM skipped ahead to the next act and then came back to the rope dancer’s act later. I was amazed that such a big production was as fluid as it was.  Not to overlook the cast I will give a nod in their direction. The majority of the performers were previous olympic participants, even the gold medalists were now dancing on a stage in extravagant costumes, make-up and speaking in tongues.

  Belfast

Post Dublin I felt a need to feed my desire to spend more time in Ireland.This led to my solo wanderings of Belfast. It was glorious. I took myself to see A Christmas Carol. I would never have known the words:”twat” and “bloody ‘ell” were used in Dicken’s time if not for this show. I do have to concede that it was a superior cast even if I was not fond of the script; I believe my enthusiasm for the show in general was probably due to the heavy Irish accents in which it was performed more than anything else.    

I went on the Belfast wheel, a smaller version of the London Eye. I tried Turkish Delight and found I disagree with Edmond upon liking that stuff. I spent an entire day wandering the 5 floors of the Linenhall Library. Built in 1678 is made of wonderful ancient wood and stone, all of the shelves are wooden with rolling ladders and each floor is covered in ancient books, theatrical indexes, Irish lineage lists and governmental scrolls as public documents. Outside the city the hills were typically tumultuous. When I took a train out to them I spent a good deal of time wandering up the paths to the summit of the “Irish mountains” more of what we would call foothills.  Cranberry’s Zombie’s continually ran through my head. The terrain and political atmosphere up here is taught, recently IRA explosives were found a mile from Dundalk, less that 23 km from the boarder. I am hoping to exit the city before any violence surfaces.
On the return journey to Germany I miscalculated my money and ended up spending the night at the airport rather than a hostel. It was an amazing experience: at 22:00 the security shut off the majority of the lights, turned off the heat and locked me and the 50 others into the airport. As it grew colder we all huddled together for warmth, eventually getting into a huge circle of spooning bodies, then we slept. I got the best sleep of the weekend with my head resting on my backpack, being spooned in the middle of two boys I did not know on the freezing airport floor. At 5AM the lights came on, we all got up, boarded planes and went to our different destinations…

7 cities, 9 days






Ciao!

Berlin:
Arriving in the city at 5AM by train, only the street cleaners and my companions were awake.
The first day we toured the city: past the great Radio tower at Alexander Platz, the parallel line of bricks that run through the city, (the only remnants of the Berlin wall). We passed the Imperial structures made of concrete, cement blocks and glass. A monochromatic gray covers the city, broken only by graffiti scribbled across the walls. But there is also beauty; there are memorials: the plaza where they burned the books. Empty white shelves sit, encased in glass, glaringly empty, surrounded by blackened cobblestones. Amber bought a book there for remembrance. The Holocaust Memorial, a league of concrete slabs, (poured and paid for by the same company who sold the gas to the Nazi’s for the gas chambers) line up in rows and hills creating streets of concrete tombs. The streets dip down into the earth. Running through them, the shadows encroach and you get lost in the maze of cold stone. There is the Parliment building, an amazing glass dome, which, when climed allows for a beautiful view of the city.
The Deutsches History museum (Containing Fragments of the Berlin Wall), Staatliche Museen Zu Berlin (Holding the Ishtar Gate and Pergamon Temple), Staatkiche Museen (holding Da Vinci, Botticelli and Bernini) and the STASI Prison are a few of my stops in Berlin.
I skipped the concentration camps in order to see Nan Goldberg’s work, A Balled of Sexual Addiction at the C/O Berlin. Her Photography is something which changed the world of photography through the snapshot. I bought street art at the “one day farmer’s market” and I went to hear the Berliner Philharmonic Orchestra play and sat on the stage while Sir Simon Rattle conducted a piece of Schoenberg’s with such emotion that even the violinists were crying as they played.

The most intense part of this trip (besides the German Techno clubs and German beer) was being in Berlin when the 20 year anniversary of the Wall falling happened. In 9 November 1989 the wall was first broken down and crossed legally. While I was there there was a huge celebration to commemorate this moment: a wall of wooden squares were placed across the city (where the origional wall had once been). After they blocks had all been decorated (by the same artists who first painted the wall years ago, if they were still alive) the new “wall” was knocked down like dominoes.Obama did not show up at this event although he was expected, Hilary Clinton spoke in his place however and Bon Jovi sang after the many German officials who gave speaches. It was a true celebration.

Milan:
In the fashion capital of the world I ogled at the Dolce and Cabana Ads. I participated in a dance in the central plaza, celebrating Milan Independence and ate my first Italian gelato sitting in the middle of a rose garden, surrounded by white marble statues of Venus and Zeus.

Venice:
This city is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. And it is dieing. My first day there a funeral was staged for the city. Hundreds locals with their gondolas adn boats traveled down the main canal with empty coffins towards the sea. The city has less that 65,000 people living in it, but over 500,000 tourists visiting it everyday.

While I was there I was one of the many tourists, running across bridges, riding in a gondola, buying a Venetian mask and Murano glass for friends and family. I spent the nights wandering the streets, popping in and out of the many churches, stopping only to light a candle in each one, as a symbol of remembrance and appreciation for the city. I am glad I got to see it, while it is still around.
  Florence
The city rose abruptly out of the mountain. The picturesque villages that I had been watching through the train windows, composed of a single church surrounded by a few plaster houses petering off into the snow capped mountains ended. Suddenly then there was a carbon film covering everything. My hostel was in a man’s apartment. He greeted me and my travel companion with a hug and three kisses then sent us into his city. We walked the Giardino di Boboli and posed with Venus. We sipped liquid dark chocolate (hot coco so rich I will never call anything chocolate again, unless it be that). We climbed the Piazzale Michelangelo, posed with David, then moved on to the cemetery above. It was a more sacred version of Pere Lechese I think. Here all of the mausoleums were in tack, and every grave held fresh flowers. I assisted an elderly Italian woman in changing the flowers on her husband’s grave.

The next day Amber and I took off to see the Galleria dell’ Accademia and Musei Uffisi. Here we looked on Madonna with a Long Neck, The Birth of Venus and La Primavera. We saw David and The Rape of the Sabine Women next to Mapplethorpe photographs and we walked around the Duermo. Alas I could not afford to go up. Perhaps another time.
Rome
I have to admit first off that I did not make it to an Opera, although I did see the Opera house. I suppose there will be a next time for that as well.
Anyway, I did see the Colosseum at night, I did run in and out of the Arch De Triumph. I took photos in front of the Trevi fountain. I saw the park of ruins (old columns and decaying arches) and the Colonna Traiana. I sat on the steps of the Tori Imperiali and sat inside the Pantheon while rain poured in on my head from the great oculus in the middle of the coffered ceiling.
The little church Saint Maria’s which holds the statue “The ecstasy of St Teresa” was the most beautiful church I have ever seen and holds, without a doubt my favorite statue in all of Europe thus far. The detail, the strands of heaven reaching down, the love on her face is the most believable and wonderful looks I have ever seen on a human face. I am very glad to have seen “St Teresa” even thought it meant that I missed seeing the inside of St. Peter’s within the Vatican Walls.
The Vatican is another world. I have never seen such impregnable walls. The sheer span of them is alarming, upon stepping inside I was not sure if I was more frightened that I would never get out or that the church might someday destroy the works of beauty that are hidden within these walls. The Sistine Chapel is more breath taking in person that I could have ever imagined. I appreciated it all the more after the merry chase that I was sent on trying to find it. (Because everyone wants to see the chapel and nothing more, you are forced to pay for and traverses the entire Vatican Museum first.) While I admit I was impressed with the splendor of this museum and the seemingly impeccable records of every age of history that it holds in its records, I was amazed at how gaudy much of it was. I was also put out at the amount of strategically placed art, quotes and statues which symbolically and literally stamped on other religions. I am not sure what I should have been expecting however, so maybe I am just missing the point. And the point really was, Seeing the hand of God in the Sistine Chapel. I really love wet Fresco work.
Sicily Upon arrival we tried to stumble into our bed and breakfast, but got caught on the street as a funeral passed us by. The Father came first swinging the Incense, then the older women in black weeping. Following behind them came the younger men carrying the coffin, then the rest of the town. Silently they stopped in the house next to ours and had a funeral service. I kept my head down, an intruder on the moment. Our host arrived to usher us safely behind the gates of the hotel just after the service ended. Here we escaped into the lush garden within and barred ourselves within our room, until we were sure the town had settled in for the night. Only then did we venture out to view the salt mines of the city which lie in the shadow of a snow capped mountains. We walked in the olive, orange and pomegranate groves which grew at the edge of the village. It was a quite place. I enjoyed the rest, the warmth of the southern sun and the stillness of the town. I am sorry to have intruded on their grief.

Bologna.
I have flown into the sun before, but never with Italians singing a love song to the morning around me. Never have I heard such applause upon a safe landing as when we landed in Bologna. Never have I had to race to a plane: Ryan Air does not have assigned seats therefore passengers charge the boarding door. There was no need for “excusi” one simply shoves. (I was the last one on the plane and funnily enough, still got a good seat.) Bologna is a place where there is wonderful gelato, a place where I was informed that true Italians only eat pizza for dinner (anyone who eats it for lunch is obviously a tourist), where Pontius Pilot absolved himself of all of his sins in the town fountain, where there is one meat and cheese vendor and where red marble is the predominate rock.
It is also a city which does not open on the Sabbath, therefore I saw very little of it as no shop was open outside the airport. Or perhaps I saw more of the city as all of the locals paraded around with their large families. The men showing off the women on their arms and the Grandmother yelling at them all from behind as she rounded out the family tapping her cane on the cobblestones.