Budapest



I traveled to Budapest this Thanksgiving.
Upon arrival we (Amber and I) were by the lack of signs in English. Most countries thus far have catered to tourists assuming English as a second language or have at least had similar stem words.
Without any form of direction Amber and I jumped on the incorrect train, heading away from the city rather than into it. If we had not gotten lost we would have missed cinder block buildings which have been turned into massive tagging sites. We would never have noticed the carbon-coated windows and scooters smeared with red, blue and green spray paint. We would have left the country thinking of Western Europe, never dreaming of the slight campfires interspersed between rubbish piles. The hovels made of fabric strips and ragged plastic sheeting would not shield a thought from the world. But the people staring at the train as we passed were beautiful. Dressed in brilliant hues what were obviously original styles were clearly functional as well as a status of standing. We hopped off at the first opportunity and darted across the tracks to catch the inbound train; for a second in that confusion I channeled National Geographic in my mind-for one slight girl looked up from the fire she was poking and stared me directly in the eye. Her eyes looked violet.

Once in the city we ran into a group of Canadians who were going caving in the hills of Pest. There was no option but to join them. Our guide was a lanky man wearing a flaming helmet. Follow the flame he told us, and if it goes out back track as quickly as you can because it means we have run out of oxygen. As we crawled along he would call out directions as we army crawled through the slippery wet limestone at the 100% humidity saturated air under the city. “Turn your head about 45 degrees to the right and now slide foreword..” he would call as the ground surrounding us shoot when a train or lorry passed overhead. My eyes told me that it was impossible for my body to fit through such crawl spaces so many times I wanted to despair. Yet each timeI would find myself slithering through, amazed that I was still finding space to inch forward, often propelling my entire body weight with a single hand. Claustrophobia was also a good incentive. The faster I got through these tunnels and to the center, the sooner I could see the sky again. Amber had the time of her life, being short she was able to clamber up places I had to by-pass. She even went through the famous birth-hole at the center of the caves. She was reborn in Budapest.

The second day in the city brought us alongside the Duna River, past Parliament and then up to the Budapest Castle where we admired the view of the city along with all of the home made table cloths, doilies and sweets that were for sale to tempt the tourists. I bought nothing, finding it hard to justify one piece of bread for 450HUF. 

Once we had fully explored the free gardens of the castle we ducked into a labyrinth underneath the castle. Carved of limestone and brick the Budavari Barintus Elozetes Labyrinth of Courage is a coming of age test for Hungarians. As we walked the path the story unfolded: The sun has been captured by something evil and is now trapped at the end of the labyrinth. In order to get there we must conquer out fears of darkness and splash through water, around corners and about ghostlike Goddess statues while following a thin piece of twine until we come to the sun at the end. Amber clutched onto my purse, shoving me in front of her to feel out blindly in the dark. Without sight to guide us the echo of a heart drum beating, somewhere the center of the labyrinth sent chills down my spin as I carefully slid my fingers along the course rope fibers.

Once outside I insisted we find the highest point accessible, the battlements in the pouring rain to shake all the dirt off our skin. While there I found a life friend, a hawk. He stepped freely from his trainers arm onto mine, surprising us both. I grit my teeth as his talons bit into the glove on my arm. He balanced well, for I know my arm was not steady.

For theater in this city we attended “Sonnenfinsternis” a German opera and a the world premiere at the Budapest Opera House. Around us people were dressed in long evening gowns with tiaras and three-piece suits. Amber and I in our mud-encrusted jeans and black pea-coats hid in a bathroom stall until the lights dimmed before daring to sneak into our balcony seats of the house. I do not recall much of the opening act as I spent a good amount of time oogling the gold trim, wet frescos and opera boxes around us instead. However, during the second act I found myself distracted from the action onstage by the German words that were projected onto the set throughout the scenes. I understand the need for explanatory exposition. But this concept seemed to take it a bit far. Besides the design the technical aspects were extremely smooth, I even enjoyed the monochromatic color palate the use of multiple trap doors, electronic columns and inflatable set pieces. It was a very daring world premiere overall.

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